nothing as long as you keep her bathed and brushed. shaving it just makes that easier.

 

We shave tummies because it's an area that tends to mat, and it's far too sensitive to be brushed at all. You don't have to keep it shaved to the skin, but it helps to take it shorter than a half inch to prevent tangles. You can use an attachment, but keep in mind you won't be able to get into the crevices around her privates with that. So if you can get your groomer to do that part very short (and show you how it's done), it's helpful to keep urine from getting in the hair there, and on her tush.

Shaving with a #10 takes a little practice, but it's harder than you'd think to nick them. When I shave that area, I stand at the back of the dog, lift one leg up and out to the side (I also grab tail in the same hand if it's in the way), and putting the blade flat against the inside of the upper thigh, shave straight up toward the vulva, and "scoop" the hair from the crevices. Then I repeat on the other side. It's hard to describe, unfortunately, it helps to see it done.

As for your groomer insisting on a clean shaved face, something I think every professional groomer need to learn is this: it's not her dog. It's your dog. You have a right to get what you want if you are paying for her services. After all, she sees your dog for a few hours, but you take her home. Be firm about what you want.

 

a 10 blade isn't likely to nick. It CAN, but it's not as bad as, say, a 7F.

To help allay your fears, have a close inspection on HOW the blade works. Look at it, fiddle with it, move the blade along it's runners slightly and SEE how it works. Put it on your clippers and turn it on, see how the blade drive clips into the notch at the back of the blade, and how when THAT vibrates, it vibrates the blade back and forwards. The MOVING bit, is the blade, it cuts against the top of the teeth. The teeth are just teeth, that keep the skin away from the moving blade. Look at how narrow the gap between the teeth are. Yes it's possible to catch a fold of skin in between the teeth, but if you are inspecting the blade you'll see what a tiny pleat of skin it'll take to feed up between those teeth to be ABLE to get anywhere near being cut. It CANNOT cut flat skin! It's not possible for flat skin to be caught into the blade. You can put your fingers across the top of the moving blade, and it won't cut you. I oil my blades when they''re moving, and just use a rag, while it's still moving, to wipe and absorb any excess oil; it doesn't cut the rag; it CAN'T cut the rag unless I feed a bit of it between the teeth and it's slice through then.

So explore the blade to really get your head around HOW it works, WHY it cuts. If you know how it DOES cut, then you know how to prevent it FROM cutting! The only time it'll cut skin is if you catch a fold of skin up in between the teeth; so make sure you clip along the flat planes of skin, and never along a folded area; only across it.

The attachment will not prevent a fold of skin from being caught in the blade if you went along a fold still!

And you don't have to shave her face at all. Nor her belly. or anything if you really want. lol! But she'll get long and hairy and grotty... haha. But really, if you want it long, then let it be long!!! Just keep her clean and brushed out and she'll be find if she has longer areas.

 

Thanks FD for that very helpful reassurance on using clippers. I had to really steel myself the first time I used the clippers, and still stick to a 10 blade to be safe!

Purley - if you prefer the teddy bear look, could you not do her face with the shortest comb attached? Or get a 7F blade?

 

Oh great thanks so much. That is very, very helpful. I will fiddle with the clipper this morning.

 

I believe this photo was put on this board by someone -- I forget who now but I have the name somewhere. This is how I would like her to look.

 

A 10 blade is actually a pretty safe blade. You're not really likely to cut a dog with it unless you're really going straight into the flakes, or digging it into skin. Use the weight of the clippers to clip, and just skim off of places you're nervous about. It took me months of grooming dogs almost daily to get confident enough with clipping arm pits and flanks, though in two years I've never cut anyone there. Just schnauzer ears on psycho dogs and dogs that lick my clippers/scissors

Lickers get muzzled for their own saftey

 

ohh, and try clipping your arms or legs with the 10 blade to SEE how it works and to feel how it feels and to feel safer with them...

 

Yes. I did try on my legs - but they are flat pieces of skin with no folds!! I just need a bit more practice. I am actually going to do Tyson's ears. He has always had short hair on his ears and tail -- not like most shih-tzus. We decided it suited his name but I decided to leave his body hair longer at last grooming and I guess my groomer misunderstood me because she left his ears and tail alone.

So, I am going to use the clippers on him. Any amount of practice will give me confident I'm sure.

I think my husband would notice if I shaved his head when he was sleeping!

 

My grandmother once did my grandfather's head with her poodle clippers - he was awake at the time though!

 

Actually a #10 is a very safe blade others are not so safe. I for one learned way back in grooming school to practice on my hands. Yup, you read me right. Put the blade on the clippers & use it on you fingers, follow the curves, feel the pressure of your clippers & the vibrations & practice a light touch. This is how I learned before I ever put clippers to a dog. Keep skin flat & taught & you won't mess up the skin. As for the rash area put on a very short attachment comb & go from there.

As for the face, ears & body- Remember this is YOUR dog & YOU can have it anyway YOU want. If you have done a good prep job then there is no argument from a groomer not to do what you want. If you want the face full, mustache or just longer than a smooth Poo face GO for it. My Poo has shaved ears with a #4 & edged out, Why, because I looooooove his ears with a little wave, no water, yuck, food etc messing up in the long hair of ears. This is MY preference for this dog. So, don't give in & hand over your picture to your groomer friend & have her do it that way.

 

Well she is a friend and she has been grooming for probably 50 years. She has also been teaching obedience classes as well. So if she wasn't better than me at all this it would be a pretty poor show. I am going to email the picture to her. I think that little dog is really cute. Pity I can't remember where I got it.

I did Tyson's ears with a 1/8 attachment. I tried to do his tail, but he kept sitting down. I had to go at it with thinning shears. Now - if that was Patty - my groomer -- he would stand there perfectly. Anyway, I just wanted to practice.

 

afraid to clip

if you turn your clippers and put the blade in your hand it wont cut you unless you use a long blade say over #10 and get something caught between the moving blades, so if you lie it flat on your dogs skin dont push it to much, let the clippers glide, you should be ok, I have never nicked a dog in 30 years thankfully and the #10 is fine for sanitary area even over the bit you are not sure what to call lol, make sure the blade is cool at all times, do not let it heat up, if it does change the blade or use a blade coolant, good luck

 

When I had the 1/2 inch attachment on, I could feel the actual clipper body was getting warm. It wasn't really hot though. Should I stop when it gets warm - or only when it gets really hot?

I have a tube of clipper oil and clipper grease that came with the clippers. Somewhere around here I have the little book that came with the clippers, but in the meantime could someone knowledgeable tell me please - when and how do I use each of those?

And what about clipper coolant? I have never heard of that. When do you use it? Is it good to use it - I mean is it OK or something you shouldn't use often or what?