I would start with management. Use window film or coverings so he can’t keep practising this hobby while you work out a plan. Walk the boys separately. Do loose-leash or off-leash sniffy wanders rather than trying to navigate crowded sidewalks and unpredictable environments with the added trigger of leash tension. That sort of thing.

Then, since you understand the concept of thresholds, I would apply that knowledge in a methodical, incremental, daily approach. SpiritDog is a resource that our trainer recommends. Lots of free content on her Facebook, Instagram, and website. But it sounds like you’re ready to tackle this issue in a more structured way, so her reactivity course might be a better option.

I would also be very selective in the advice you take from friends, family, and/or well-meaning strangers. My parents, for example, have a dog who doesn’t react to humans or animals and only barks when she wants something. She is the easiest dog in the world. Does that mean they did everything right? No. Absolutely 100% not. They got extremely lucky, and they’ll be the first to admit it. But others aren’t always so humble or self-aware, and they’ll swear up and down that their methods are the right ones. Those methods applied to a dog with a very different temperament or background could create a whole new set of problems.

 

I take classes from Fenzi Dog Sports Academy. Enrollment closed three days ago for the June session, but Dr. Amy Cook has one coming up in the August session Fenzi Dog Sports Academy - BH110: Dealing with the Bogeyman: Helping Reactive and Fearful Dogs - The Play Way! If you are familiar with the Control Unleash protocols, then Julie Daniels' class might be a good option. Fenzi Dog Sports Academy - BH290: Control Unleashed in the Big Wide World Enrollment for six-week long classes ranges from $65 for auditing (Bronze) level up to $260 for one-on-one instructor feedback (Gold) level. There is a scholarship program that covers half the cost on the auditing level tuition for students that need it. If you are on Facebook, you can take advantage of the student groups. The group for Dr. Cook's class will have a Teaching Assistant available to help auditing level students

Dr. Cook also has an on demand video that covers some basic strategies (her classes are more in-depth). Fenzi Dog Sports Academy - LS205: Living With & Training a Reactive Dog

 

@Phaz23 wrote about Tekno's leash reactivity/excited greeting in these posts. Perhaps some of her techniques would be work with Limerick.

 

I'm no expert, but "getting him out more" is the opposite of what you want to do now. Right now he needs confidence in really low stimuli environments. I would also be hesitant to put him in a reactive class if it's a group class. Even with barriers, hearing other dogs panic or smelling their stress is not conducive to helping your boy achieve a calmer state.

@PeggyTheParti is right to start thinking about thresholds and I would say go so far as to journal all that stimulates your boy and at what distance, in what environment, and after you've got him confident in a low stakes environment, VERY gradually move him "closer." I also agree to use drapes/window films, etc.

I would take a step back and look at his days - where can you reward and introduce calm and restraint? (There are so many instances if we're mindful).

 

While I agree that getting out more could be problematic if that means leash tension and frequent, unpredictable stimuli, I have an alternative perspective on that.

When we visit my parents, we stay in a busy high-rise, in an urban area, which is packed with reactivity triggers. Normal walks were making Peggy’s reactivity worse, but introducing a morning romp, off-leash, in an area where triggers are few and far between and easily avoidable, made a huge difference. The trend reversed and she started to unwind. Rather than working on restraint (which would be applicable in some situations), and ratcheting up the tension, we let her be a dog and move in naturally decompressing ways.

I don’t know what Limerick’s day-to-day life looks like, but if his outings are leashed and slow-moving, in a busy or unpredictable area, just increasing those outings is likely to make the situation worse. But increasing those outings and changing what they look like could be beneficial if they help him destress. Especially if he’s bored and under-stimulated at home.

I do think the outings probably need to be separate from Dublin, though. In my admittedly limited experience with multi-dog households, a buddy can make reactivity a million times worse. I don’t know why this is. If Dublin actually has a calming effect on him, then of course ignore that advice.

 

Good clarification - I associate "getting out" with busy urban environments vs decompressing sniff walks or runs in nature.

 

I would say that Dublin's presence is neutral, most of the time. Other times Limerick will follow his lead (like with people - Dublin approaching people means Limerick will be more likely to approach them). Rarely is he a trigger, or a problem, because he's not as hyped up and will listen if i tell him to do something. But occasionally he joins in, or starts it (cats - he's been triggered lately by cats, probably because we seem to have more of them roaming about than usual.)

But i agree that i need to work on Limerick's issues separately from Dublin. Since i make my own schedule it's not hard for me to find the time to work them both separately. Just not easy for find $$ for official classes right now lol. Lim took a few classes as a puppy and went to this place for puppy preschool so he's familiar with it and actually enjoys being there. As a puppy he was... easily distracted but more responsive to food. After a few minutes of silly excitement he would settle in to training, though he DID get bored easily if we worked on the same thing over and over.

He's been cooped up the past two weeks because of his neuter and the oops following that. So he's extra full of himself right now, lol. I need to get into a routine again once he's cleared (hopefully this week).

On our normal days they get to play in the yard at least twice a day (morning/evening), and i've been mixing in obedience work with that play. Come, stay, release, leash manners one at a time, etc. It's always fun for them. We also do a few short training sessions inside working on door manners, place, and so on. I admit that I don't walk them every day - but the days i don't walk them they get more yard time.

Walks are normally either first thing in the morning or in the evening when it's cool out. Sometimes it's both. Our daily walks usually keep us close to home. Around the block, or when we want to go longer we go down part of the bike path. I switch between controlled lose leash (they stay beside me but not at perfect heel) and sniffy walking where they have the full six feet of leash to wander around as long as they aren't stupid about it lol.

When they aren't excited, they don't pull. So it's all loose leash stuff for like 90% of the walk. No tension at all. When they get walked regularly they are quite nice to walk. You know, until we see people/dogs. Hence my post lol. Even then I wouldn't say Limerick pulls. He bounces, barks, gets up on his hind legs. But rarely actually pulls/lunges.

My neighborhood and the section of bike path we use are NOT super busy especially at the times we choose to go. It's a very quiet area, usually, so we do not run into a lot of people/dogs and when we do i can usually see them coming before the dogs see them. There is plenty of room to move away, and plenty of driveways to use to get more space if needed. There's also a small park nearby that is dog friendly, but not super crowded.

We also hike. Not often, but occasionally - i would like to start hiking more. Dublin and i used to go every other week.

I'll take a look at all the suggestions given so far, when i get home later. There have been some good ones i never would have thought about!

What i was considering doing is just sitting with him on the front porch when i know it'll be quiet out. Bring a lick mat, or treats, and just let him loose leash hang out on the porch with me. Short periods at a time kind of thing. Get him used to just relaxing outside. Then graduate to the driveway, then the road. Short walks. Then hang on the porch at a time the neighbors might be out. Encourage calm. If he gets too riled up, go inside and take a step back.

I'll look into ways to cover the front windows but he also reacts to sound. Not being able to see something doesn't stop the barking lol. It's a lot LESS if he can't see it. I'll have to talk to the landlords - the house technically belongs to my parents. So i can't do anything permanent. He can and will push draped to one side to look out too!

Problem child! And now i have to get to work.

 

Just not easy for find $$ for official classes right now lol.

Not sure how tight things are at the moment, but the SpiritDog courses are much cheaper than in-person training. And I believe the reactivity course recommends just ten minutes of “work” per day. When left to our own devices, it’s very easy to alternately overdo reactivity training and just not address it at all. I know I struggle with an all-or-nothing mentality in many aspects of my life.

 

Thinking about your situation some more, I wonder if it would be helpful to break it down into two issues you’d like to tackle:

1. Reactivity
2. Alert barking in the home

I ask because Peggy’s alert barking was waaaaay easier to address than her ongoing reactivity. I do a few things:

• Respond with reassurance and an “I’ll go check it out” attitude, followed by “All good! Shake it off!” I started saying the shake-it-off part when I noticed her literally shaking herself off to decompress. Now it’s a cue.
• Interrupt door barks (for example, when a package is being delivered on the porch) with not just a yummy treat, but a series of yummy treats tossed down the hall. First we race to the pantry. (This is incompatible with barking at the door. Peggy now does it automatically and waits for me.) Then I feed a treat and toss a few more. She has to return and focus on me between each toss to wait for the next. Chasing a treat not only relieves stress, it also distracts her from any continued activity at the door. Afterward, rather than going back to the door, she is relaxed enough to return to whatever she was doing before. (Generally napping.)
• Praise soft and/or single barks. “Good girl, thank you” is soooo much more effective than “NO.” This revelation has honestly been life-changing for our household, as has a commitment to letting her be a dog. Dogs bark. She’s allowed to bark. But barking shouldn’t be excessive.

 

I think breaking everything down into different pieces to work on is a great idea! I think it's all related, maybe to his energy level and drive, but it's not all the same issue if that makes sense. Working on different things at different times does, to me.

As i'm typing Dublin is chilling on the couch and Limerick is playing with a new froggy toy. Throwing it around for himself and being a big goofball. He hasn't chilled or napped since i got home at 3:00. And i think.... that a big part of the problem is his energy level and drive. I'm not providing a proper outlet for those needs. The past two weeks, because of the neuter - before that.... i have no excuse.

Thinking about it now, he's always on the move. He rarely chills, or naps. He wants to play with a toy, with me, with Dublin. If I get up, he gets up. If i go to my bedroom or put on a jacket or mess with the shoe bin he gets riled up and starts to bounce. He's wired to go go go and when we finally do.... he explodes.

Does that make any sense?

As i consider the things we need to work on, i also need to consider a way to drain his energy. Obviously our normal routine isn't enough. And when i discussed it with the trainer at the facility we normally go to, she mentioned that he needed a "job" to do. He's bored. Taking matters into his own paws. So i guess as i'm doing research and thinking and figuring out a game plan, i need to consider finding him something to do as well.

Hope that makes sense. I'm just talking out loud at this point lol.

 

As i consider the things we need to work on, i also need to consider a way to drain his energy. Obviously our normal routine isn't enough. And when i discussed it with the trainer at the facility we normally go to, she mentioned that he needed a "job" to do. He's bored. Taking matters into his own paws. So i guess as i'm doing research and thinking and figuring out a game plan, i need to consider finding him something to do as well.

it makes alot of sense. Giving a job and tiring him out, does not necessarily mean running around activities. Ie scent work would tire him, as you're activating nose, brain and movement at the same time. I think low energy activities would instill the ability to be calm.
My friend's husband, who is head of the Danish K9 police force, trains his dog to climb ladders. She has just turned one. It started by the ladder on the ground, then lifted a couple of inches, then a couple of feet, then af a slight angle and so forth. He says it's a quiet and good way of burning energy. Useful in their job aswell. The dog has to concentrate on each step.
I agree with your trainer. Give him a task

 

Phoebe is also always “on”. She is never so relaxed that I can leave the room without her. I have to be creative with ways to keep her engaged and not bored, and I don’t think I could keep up with her if not for my little helpers. One of her favorite toys is the dog food dispenser where you hit the button and then a box dispenses food. My kid will hide the button, which she has to find and hit, and then she RUNS to the treat food that was dispensed, usually on the other floor, so she gets extra exercise by doing stairs. We have several other food dispensers/puzzles and they really help. I can tell if she hasn’t had one in a few days.