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I can't seem to upload pic's..I wait for them to upload, then I don't know what happens
That usually means the pic youre trying to upload is too big. Make sure its in .jpg format, then make sure i's under the file size and image size maximums ( 195 KB file size, 2000 x 2000 pixels max.) If its too big, use photo editing software to shrink and/or crop the image. Saving the file with lower quality makes the file size smaller too.

If you have an account at flicker, photobucket, or some other hosting site, you can post the link to that image in your post, then they show up in your post as bigger pictures instead of just "thumbnail" images that people have to click on.
 

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Those of you looking for a photo editor should consider Photoshop Elements 11. If you're new to photo editing it has a "guided editing" mode, which pretty much walks a novice through the editing process, and you can also do more advanced edits as you learn. It also has the ability to covert RAW format and work in layers which may mean nothing to you at this point but I think it's pretty important as you learn. And it's only a hundred bucks. Lightroom is good also, though I personally don't like it, but that's just me. Lots of people love it.
 

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Lightroom free trial

Be sure to check out the 30 day free trial on Lightroom if interested and search their instructional forum for videos and tutorials.

I actually find the limited functions in Lightroom help keep me from trying to save every photo vs Photoshop or Paintshop Pro. It also cuts down on the over editing which never looks as bad on the screen as it does when you go to print something. I am however still a vignette addict and I need a self help program.

Best thing for me @ LR is the photo management aspect and the whole workflow concept. It really helps you process large volumes of images faster and I've used the final steps to make interactive CDs of images for clients before.

Re: gear, I love my nifty 50, but I would probably invest in a good hot shoe flash that you can bounce off the ceiling when shooting casually indoors at night before getting a better quality lens.

Re: photographing black dogs, I find I have much better results editing the images as Black and White. If you have an image you love but its just "off", give it a try.
 

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On Action Photography

http://www.poodleforum.com/3-poodle-pictures/93825-rain-1st-outing-new-camera.html

http://www.poodleforum.com/3-poodle-pictures/95209-rain-chasing-wind.html

You always have such gorgeous pictures! One day, if you have the time and inclination, I'd be so appreciative if you would post a technical "how to" about how to get such great poodle action shots! What settings do you use on your camera? Are there particular technical features/specifications that a camera needs to have to get such good, clear pictures?

All my "action shots" of Begley are out of focus (at best) or completely miss having him in the frame (at worst) because the camera is too slow or I aim it too poorly.
http://www.poodleforum.com/3-poodle-pictures/95209-rain-chasing-wind.html#post1097753

First off, let me say that there are some on this forum who know a great deal more than I about photography, and who produce photographs that I cannot begin to match.

What is needed to capture fast motion ? In a word, light. you have to be able to get enough light into the camera & the camera has to be sensitive enough to capture that light quickly to form an image.

I do almost no flash photography, so I can only address natural light. On the "beach", there is a lot of bright light, direct sunlight, lol. Bright, overcast would be better ... you need good light !

You need a "fast camera" -- a camera capable of capturing sufficient light quickly. Factors that make a difference are :

-- shutter speed : faster shutter speeds capture less motion, and this is what you need for sharp action shots.

-- auto focus speed and accuracy; tracking, if you are shooting in "continuous mode"

-- lens aperture -- larger apertures capture more light (larger aperture lens = faster lens)

-- sensor size determines how much light the sensor uses to create the image; a larger sensor can gain more information than a smaller sensor and produces better images.

-- when shooting stills in continuous mode, the buffer size of the camera and the speed at which the camera can write to the sd card become factors; faster sd cards (the more expensive cards, lol) can make a difference.

When I go out with Rain, I mostly just have the camera set on automatic and for "continuous" shooting (different cameras have different names for this --- the camera shoots continuously for as long as the shutter button is pressed). I think the Olympus TG-1 could shoot full resolution images at about 5fps, which was sufficient. The images linked above, shot with the Nikon AW1, were produced at 15fps.

Resolution is really important if you need to crop heavily, as I do, since Rain is usually quite a distance from me. So, I try to shoot at full resolution.

Illustrative differences among the cameras I have owned :

Pentax Optio WG-1 : "There are two continuous shooting modes on the WG-1: regular and high-speed. The regular mode will keep taking full resolution photos, though at a dog slow rate of 0.7 frames/second. The high speed mode shoots faster (2.2 frames/sec) but 1) the resolution is 5 Megapixel and 2) the LCD is blacked out the whole time, which makes tracking a moving subject impossible." [Pentax Optio WG-1 GPS Review | Digital Camera Resource Page]

Olympus Tough TG-1 ihs : "TG-1 has strong burst-shooting options. At full resolution it can capture at up to 5 frames per second, but if you don't mind dropping to a 3-megapixel resolution, it can shoot bursts at 15fps or 60fps." [Olympus Tough TG-1 iHS review - CNET]

Nikon 1 AW1 : "The high-speed sensor used on the AW1 features built-in Phase-Detect autofocus at 73 points and reads 135 points for Contrast-Detect autofocus. This lets it focus faster than most mirrorless cameras as long as there is sufficient light. This CMOS sensor can shoot continuously at full-resolution up to 60 FPS, when using single-shot AF, or 15 FPS with continuous AF. This is combined with an electronic-shutter which allows shutter-speeds up to 1/16000s." [Nikon 1 AW1 Review | Neocamera]

If you do not need a waterproof camera, your choices will be much wider than mine.

In the hour or two that I am out with Rain, I take a lot of photos (often more than 500).

A few (+/- 20) of these are selected. I crop and make adjustments in Photoshop.

After this first outing with the Nikon, I intend to make some adjustment to the settings, since I am having an issue with blown highlights. Still, the images are a significant improvement over the former waterproof cameras I have used.

I hope this answers your question ?
 

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After this first outing with the Nikon, I intend to make some adjustment to the settings, since I am having an issue with blown highlights. Still, the images are a significant improvement over the former waterproof cameras I have used.
nu2poodles, you are such a great photographer that i hesitate to ask, but re those blown highlights, have you ever considered using a neutral density filter?
 

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nu2poodles, you are such a great photographer that i hesitate to ask, but re those blown highlights, have you ever considered using a neutral density filter?
Hi patk,

Actually, since I had lots of different problems with the former cameras, I haven't gotten very far on solving this one yet -- if I can solve it without creating greater issues. Shooting mid-day, in the blazing sun, there was lots of glare on the water surfaces.

I did change one setting in the camera, turning on "Active-D Lighting" -- described as a feature to avoid loss of detail in highlights and shadows -- to see how this would work. And my first thought had been to turn this off and see how it goes.

Then, there are some remarks about this issue here : Nikon 1 AW1 review | Compact system camera reviews: CSC reviews, tests and specifications | Amateur Photographer
"The AW1 produces bright images straight out of the camera, which do not suffer from underexposure. If anything, the camera overexposes just a little and, on occasions when I was shooting towards the light or when scenes had some particularly bright highlights, I dialled in -0.3EV or -0.7EV to guarantee highlight detail wasn't lost. To help preserve extra detail in the shadows of high-contrast scenes, Active D-Lighting can be switched on from inside the
shooting menu."

So, if I understand this correctly, he is using exposure compensation with the Active D-Lighting. Worth a try.

But, I will certainly consider giving an ND filter a try and appreciate your help very much.

I am concerned that the issue is dynamic range, so that compensating for the highlights will result in loss of detail in Rain. This would be similar to what I had with the point & shoots, where some compensation for highlights must have been made automatically and I always had to adjust lights & shadows in Photoshop (and deal with awful, noisy, grungy, shadows) to regain detail in Rain. It looks as though the Active D-Lighting may alleviate this.

The camera is capable of shooting RAW, and I think this may help. I have not pursued this yet, since to process the Nikon RAW format (nef) properly will necessitate an upgrade of my computer operating system (it's time ...).

I only have limited experience with photography and have only been practicing this beach/action photography since Rain. I have much to learn .... I am certainly open to all suggestions to improve my photographs within the constraints under which I shoot (e.g., I basically do not have much choice about times, so suggestions about time of day will not be very helpful).

But look here patk, how bad this can be -- and this was not even a beach shot. I often just grab the camera and take a picture (-- it is very rare for me to take any sort of posed picture). This is what Rain's muzzle looked like in that morning shot I posted, before I "doctored" it, & even after throwing the jpg in ACR and adjusting to recover highlights -- a portion completely blown :
 

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ok, so now this is my question.
I have a canon rebel EOS t3i. I love my kit lense, its great outdoors, which is great cause I am not an inside person. The pics are beautiful. But, I am also a filmer-meaning I make lot of youtube videos. I want the colors to be bright and the video to be clear. I know how to focus it, but when I do slow/mo its very blurry. Any lense recommendations?
 

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ok, so now this is my question.
I have a canon rebel EOS t3i. I love my kit lense, its great outdoors, which is great cause I am not an inside person. The pics are beautiful. But, I am also a filmer-meaning I make lot of youtube videos. I want the colors to be bright and the video to be clear. I know how to focus it, but when I do slow/mo its very blurry. Any lense recommendations?
The blur during frame-by-frame video is not a lens issue. Shooting in brighter light may help, Im not sure. You cant expect to take perfect frames from video. If you could, nobody would shoot still photography any more, we would just shoot video and then grab the perfect moment and make a still from that.
 

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So Jacamar, we need some Panda pictures.
 

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ok, so now this is my question.
I have a canon rebel EOS t3i. I love my kit lense, its great outdoors, which is great cause I am not an inside person. The pics are beautiful. But, I am also a filmer-meaning I make lot of youtube videos. I want the colors to be bright and the video to be clear. I know how to focus it, but when I do slow/mo its very blurry. Any lense recommendations?
The more frames it makes/second, the clearer the pictures will be in each frame.... you need a high-speed camera to have a clear slow motion movie.

High-speed camera - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
 

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I always shoot outdoors on sunny days. I think the video footage is about as good as a canon powershot. When I got the camera I was looking for a camera tht took both great pics and colorful,clear footage. My uncle helped me by asking professionals he knew and they all recommended this camera. I have seen beautiful youtue videos taken from the same camera, just a different lense.
 

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ok, so now this is my question.
I have a canon rebel EOS t3i. I love my kit lense, its great outdoors, which is great cause I am not an inside person. The pics are beautiful. But, I am also a filmer-meaning I make lot of youtube videos. I want the colors to be bright and the video to be clear. I know how to focus it, but when I do slow/mo its very blurry. Any lense recommendations?
I know practically nothing about video, but took a quick look around at your camera & its video capabilities. Found this article/review -- re slow motion:

"FRAME RATE: The camera shoots 1,920x1,080 at both 30 and 24 frames per second (fps); 1,280x720 at 24 and 60 fps; and 640x480 at 30 fps. Use the higher frame rates if you want to achieve true slow motion by over-cranking—shooting at a frame rate higher than the rate at which the final video will be played. Shooting video at 60 fps to be played back at 24 fps will yield 40-percent slow motion."

You can increase the amount of light getting to your camera sensor with a faster lens, which will also allow for better images at faster frame rates. What are the specs on your kit lens ?
 

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nu2poodles, sorry about not getting back to you sooner re neutral density filters. i'm no photographer and really bad on all the issues of lighting, etc, but for awhile i did home videos and used to hang around a videography forum, where i was told to get a neutral density filter to deal with my blown highlights (from shooting outdoors in bright light) complaints. i finally gave in, and it did help. for still photography, what i was told was that blown highlights mean no recoverable detail. an nd filter gives you a better chance of recovering detail, though at first the picture will seem darker. so in "still" photography, i was told to shoot raw and process from there.

maybe poodlerick, who is a professional photographer, can advise.
 

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Heard my name. Sorry it took so long. Been soooo busy lately. Yes shooting in RAW format does allow you to recover detail that you would loose if you just shooting jpgs since a jpg is a compression format. If you camera has the ability to shoot in RAW then you should have gotten software that allows you to manipulate that format. If not there are others like Photoshop, if you want to spend a ton. There is also Lightroom and PS Elements which handles RAW and does cost much. Anyway the RAW converter allows you to recover highlight and shadow detail that is gone in a jpg. You still have to expose correctly but RAW still has a wider dynamic range that allows you to bring them back in so you can see them once you convert to a jpg. Here is a screen grab of a pic I took with my low end DLSR in Photoshop's RAW converter. This is what you would get from a regular camera shooting in JPG. The face is ok but everything else is too dark. The second screen grab shows the same pic with some very quick adjustments and look how much better the pic is. Could still use some more work but not bad for two minutes worth of fiddling. Hope this helps some.

Rick
 

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I used to use picnik but what a shame the site has now closed is there any other good ones which you know of for photo editing thanks
 

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I used to use picnik but what a shame the site has now closed is there any other good ones which you know of for photo editing thanks
The photogs over on the Canon forum who don't use Photoshop or lightroom love Gimp. It's a free download and has a ton of support, from what I hear. I've never used it but those guys love it. GIMP - The GNU Image Manipulation Program

Rick
 
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