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Hi, this is the first time to adopt a puppy and I don't know what to do. Everything is overwhelming, especially I have a pet bunny at home {He is not in the case just running free around the apartment}. how do I introduce the puppy to the bunny without them get upset with each other and what are the things I need for the puppy?
 

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Best advice I can give you is to bring the bunny to meet the puppy. Also tell the breeder you have one, so she can pick a puppy especially with that in mind. And make sure to pick a good, ethical breeder who knows what she’s doing.

Poodles are hunting dogs and some have a really strong prey drive, even toys. I have two toys : one couldn’t care less about small preys but the other one, my female, would most likely hurt any small animal really bad, even worse.

Many of us have toys or miniatures who catch and kill mice.
 

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Welcome! I recommend reading this cover to cover well in advance of bringing home your puppy:


Also available online for free:



Make note of any questions that arise and we'll try and answer them here for you. :)
 

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I have a mini who lives with a rabbit without issue, even though he has quite a bit of prey drive. They were introduced when the dog was a young puppy. The puppy was quite awful about wanting to play rough with the rabbit but has slowly gotten better with him. The dog had no desire to hurt the rabbit but did treat him as a playmate. It is important to not subject the rabbit to constant torment. The rabbit must have safe spaces where the puppy cannot reach. Then you can have short sessions where they are heavily supervised and you remove the puppy when it plays too rough.
 

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Hi and Welcome!
Do you have a breeder picked out? When is your puppy going to come home? How old will the puppy be?

I've never had a bunny but along with the above advice, I'll add a list of supplies that will be needed or need to be considered.

The puppy should simply not roam free, for a very long time, til they're housetrained, past any chewing stage, and have become carefully friendly with the bunny.

This means that it will be very advisable to keep the puppy literally tethered to you (this is a normal procedure when introducing a puppy to a new living environment) and/or an exercise pen for the puppy and/or a crate for the puppy to be used whenever the puppy is not under your immediate control.

New Pup/Dog startup


Crates, Carriers, Exercise Pens, Beds/Bedding, Travel
Harnesses, Collars, Leashes
Food, Water, Bowls
Enzyme Cleaner, Pee pads, Poo bags, Paper Towels
Toys
Grooming
Health, Vet, Vaccinations Vs Socialization, Insurance, Care Credit, Emergency funds
Puppy proofing inside and out, including kitties, bunnies, older pets



This is really more your basic startup info. It's taken from other threads and posts that many active members of PF has contributed to. I hope more Pfer's will add to this, comment or correct any mistakes.


Crates, Carriers, Exercise Pens, Beds/Bedding, Travel
Crates

Hard side plastic or wire is best for early days. If you choose wire, be sure there are no sharp bits, and be very sure that the door will stay fully latched with a bumptious puppy in it. It's not common but there have been some concerning reviews mentioning injuries.
No collars in the crate for safety.
Look for one with a divider in the size you expect them to grow into and use the divider to keep them comfortably cozy (stand up, turn around, sleep) til then.
Use a blanket as a crate cover.
Use a washable bath rug/towels or sherpa crate mat for bedding.
Put something leak proof on the floor of the crate or under it.
Depending on the layout of the house/apt, consider 2 crates, one for the sleeping space, one for the living space.


If you can manage it, have the pup sleep in your bedroom. They just think they're on an adventure until bedtime, especially the first night, rolls around. Suddenly they realize that NOTHING is familiar, no scent, warmth or comfort of mom or siblings. They are Alone.


Ask the breeder to do this or bring a towel or blanket to get mom and siblings scent on it, to comfort them.
Keeping them in the same room allows you to hear if they are unwell or need to go out.
Expect to have the young ones out several times during the night for a while.
Set a periodic alarm to beat them to it.


Don't count on a lot of sleep the first days or weeks. Taking a few days off from work or work from home, if you can, will really help set routines and gives some time to get to know each other. Find out if the breeder had them on a daily routine and try to follow that for a few days.


They're facing so many instant and incomprehensible changes. Keep what you can the same for a while.


Ex Pen
This expands their relaxation space but keeps them contained and out of mischief.
Food and water bowls as well as pee pads can be in that space.
Use a leak proof flooring here also.
These can be plastic or wire or even pop up soft side. (Same caution on wire construction.)


Beds and bedding
This may depend on the pups age and what they're used to. A young pup probably doesn't need one just yet. An older pup or dog may already be using one. A soft sleeping surface may trigger the need-to-urinate reflex, so a crate mat or some towels may be sufficient.


Carrier
These are generally only good up to about 15lbs but have their place.
A smaller crate with handles can double as a carrier.


Travel

Keeping your pup comfortable and safe in the car is important.
Depending on size and age, you might use a carrier, a crate, or a harness with seat belts.


Sleepypod brand is a highest safety rated product. Testing was done by the independent Center for Pet Safety, with some testing sponsored by Subaru.
There are a number of threads covering other brand suggestions. You can use the Search function to find them.


Harnesses, Collars and Leashes
Harnesses are usually a better safety choice for smaller pups due to potential trachea injury from collars, but it may not be the best choice for a pup who wants to pull.
Collars will carry tags and ID but don't have to be worn inside the home due to potential choking hazards.


Food, Water, Bowls
It's best to keep them on the same food as the breeder had for a while. They're already under stress from the abrupt change in their lives and this is one thing that doesn't usually need to change immediately.
They may go off their feed as it is, so keep an eye on that.
Toys are especially subject to hypoglycemia. This can very quickly become fatal. Look for the sticky on it.
If/when you want to change foods, look for foods which follow the AAFCO guidelines and companies which have a veterinary nutritionist formulating the foods.
Stainless steel or ceramic is best for their food and water bowls.
You might consider filling a bottle with the water they've been drinking at the breeders and mix it with the water at their new home, to acclimate.


Enzyme Cleaner, Pee pads, Poo bags, Paper Towels, Bitter Apple Spray
Pretty much all self explanatory.
Natures Miracle is usually recommended for enzyme cleaner.
Bitter Apple Spray is to keep them from mouthing and biting on what you don't want them to.


Toys
Have a selection of several different types on hand.
Check with your vet for safe chewing toys. They also work as trade to get your fingers back
Puzzle toys are good, and Kongs to hide kibble and treats are helpful.
Not exactly a toy, but something to consider is the Smart Pet Love Snuggle Puppy toy. This can help soothe a pup.


Grooming
I hope others will have brand specific suggestions for combs, brushes, shampoos…
Generally, a puppy shampoo with or w/o conditioner added
Greyhound comb
Pin brush with rounded tips
Soft slicker brush
Dryer
Grooming table or designated area
Nail trimmer or Dremel tool
It is important to get them used to the grooming process asap.
The longer you wait, the harder it is on the pup and whoever's doing the grooming.
It does not hurt their coat to get a puppy trimmed

Health, Vet, Vaccinations Vs Socialization, Insurance, Care Credit, Emergency funds
Ask if any other dog on the premises has been ill in the last week or so. Choose a vet if you don't have one and know where the ER clinic is.
Have the pup checked out by a vet within a day or two of homecoming whether the breeder requires it or not.
Puppies can socialize with vaccinated adult dogs, and probably known puppies who aren't fully vaccinated yet.
Best to stay away from paws on the ground at places a lot of dogs might be til yours is fully vaccinated.
People are not usually any risk or at risk.
Consider pet insurance, at least for the first year or two, or sign up for Care Credit if there is a health emergency.
If you can, a healthy four figure separate savings account dedicated to emergencies can be a life saver, literally.
Keep a first aid kit and learn some first aid procedures.


Puppy proofing inside and out, including kitties, bunnies, older pets
Check your fencing if there is any. You want to keep things out as well as puppy in.
Check your plant life for possible toxic plants.
Inside keep cords and cables covered or out of reach.
Be sure that kitties or other free roaming animals in the home have a safe retreat from Puppy.
Anything puppy level is at risk.




Besides pet stores, there is Amazon, Chewy.com, and eBay and Etsy for supplies. Other brick and mortar stores if they're nearby are Tuesday Morning, Marshall's, HomeGoods, Sierra Trading Post and TJ Maxx. The last two are also online.
(Apologies for the US centric shopping references, but they're what I know.
 
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If your feeling its over whelming prior to getting the puppy, just wait..Puppies are a lot of work and very time consuming. My neighbor has a bunny and a small dog but her dog has no prey drive. Puppies like to play and chase and bite. Personally I don't think its a good combination, but thats me.
 
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