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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I usually search the past posts to get my answers but "buy puppy" ends up with a lot of breeder and buying a puppy posts. And that's not what I am looking for. So if there is already a post of all that I need to prepare for a standard puppy, please send me a link and ignore here. :)

I'm not even looking for brand recommendations, but I wanted to share my "to get" list and see if I've missed anything on it, or just didn't think of something. This is my first dog and poodle so I'm super nervous and the time to get Fenris is getting closer and closer soooo slowly but surely. So I'm preparing. I've gone through quite a few different sites and list suggestions but am I missing anything poodle specific? I really, really feel like I'm missing something...

Here is what I've got (or am in the process of ordering/researching) so far:

Health:
Vet/Vet Appt
Pet Insurance

Safety/Comfort:
Crate
Playpen
Bed
Blanket
Collar
Harness
Leash
Car backseat cover
Seatbelt
Camera
Kitty (baby) gate
ID tags

Food/Waste:
Portable water bottle
Food/water bowl
Poop bags
Poop bag dispenser
Pet enzyme cleanup spray
Dog food
Treats
Puppy pads
Portable bowl

Grooming: (I'm getting just the basics for now)
Greyhound comb
Slicker brush
Pin brush
Dryer
Wipes
Dog shampoo
Dog toothpaste/toothbrush
Nail trimmer
Detangling spray
Zymox with hydrocortisone

Training/play:
Snuggle toy
Puzzle toys
Chew toys
Training treat pouch
Plush toys
Rope toys
Puppy training class
Clicker

What am I missing?
 

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Looks like a good list. Other things that come to mind... ID tag for collar, and I always recommend Zymox with hydrocortisone for regular ear health maintenance. Also a good detangling spray for brushing.
 

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ID tag for collar
Good one! We had one ready to go with both our phone numbers on it. Horrifying to think that something could happen between the breeder's house and your home, or during that first night together, but better safe than sorry.

Ali, I can't see anything obvious missing from the list. Sometimes you don't really know what you need until you need it. And some of those needs will change depending on the specifics of your puppy. But as long as you've got your first night covered, you'll be fine.

I think having a game plan for potty and sleep times, a foundational understanding of the socialization and training methods you'd like to use, and a whole lotta love and patience are really the most important things.
 

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Good one! We had one ready to go with both our phone numbers on it. Horrifying to think that something could happen between the breeder's house and your home, or during that first night together, but better safe than sorry.

Ali, I can't see anything obvious missing from the list. Sometimes you don't really know what you need until you need it. And some of those needs will change depending on the specifics of your puppy. But as long as you've got your first night covered, you'll be fine.

I think having a game plan for potty and sleep times, a foundational understanding of the socialization and training methods you'd like to use, and a whole lotta love and patience are really the most important things.
I've been looking at ID tags but forgot to put them on my (excel) list!

I will have a plan for potty/sleep times. I am actually meeting a trainer this weekend to go over and modify my plan as needed. I've actually been (hypothetically) converted to clicker training after reading a lot about it, and I think some of the links and book were recommended by you, so thank you!
 

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I've been looking at ID tags but forgot to put them on my (excel) list!

I will have a plan for potty/sleep times. I am actually meeting a trainer this weekend to go over and modify my plan as needed. I've actually been (hypothetically) converted to clicker training after reading a lot about it, and I think some of the links and book were recommended by you, so thank you!
You sound way more prepared than I was! Nicely done. :)

Zak George is filming a brand new series right now. The first episode will be about the first 24 hours with a puppy! Perfect timing. Are you on Instagram? He posted about it today.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
You sound way more prepared than I was! Nicely done. :)

Zak George is filming a brand new series right now. The first episode will be about the first 24 hours with a puppy! Perfect timing. Are you on Instagram? He posted about it today.
I have a rarely checked Instagram account, this puppy thing forced me back to Facebook and now Instagram, haha. I'll definitely check it out. I bought one of those school agendas I have not had since college and have been puppy planning the first month, in pencil just in case. ;)
 

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You sound way more prepared than I was! Nicely done. :)

Zak George is filming a brand new series right now. The first episode will be about the first 24 hours with a puppy! Perfect timing. Are you on Instagram? He posted about it today.
Wait, he's doing another one? Yesssss
 

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I have a rarely checked Instagram account, this puppy thing forced me back to Facebook and now Instagram, haha. I'll definitely check it out. I bought one of those school agendas I have not had since college and have been puppy planning the first month, in pencil just in case. ;)
That's so cute. I'm glad you're having fun. :)
 

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Yeah, that should do.

Since we're on ear care, I don't know if you have any cotton balls lying around. You'll need those for cleaning out the ears. You can use rags, but just get a bag of 100-300 cotton balls for cheap is easiest imo. You'll use ~3 per ear per cleaning session. Also, if you're bathing at home, puppy will probably fit in the kitchen sink from 8-11 weeks old. Stuff his/her ears with 1 cotton ball per ear per bath to prevent water from getting in.

I really, really feel like I'm missing something...
You're not. Your list is super comprehensive. I'm mentally walking over my first 1-6 weeks that I had with Basil. Your list is 110% good. Puppy's first 2 weeks with you is just going to be a lot of pee, poop, sleep, play, bonding. You'll find you don't need everything on day one, but it's nice to have. I was like you.

How is the puppy-proofing progress on room/apt/house going?
 

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This is a great list! I’m also in a similar situation, preparing for our puppy to come home the first weekend in November. I feel like I’ve been planning forever but now it’s actually time to bite the bullet and buy things. We’re SO excited.
 

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Your list is very good. I keep one on file which I'll drop it here for compare/contrast. I see some things on yours that I don't have.

New Pup/Dog startup

Crates, Carriers, Exercise Pens, Beds/Bedding, Travel
Harnesses, Collars, Leashes
Food, Water, Bowls
Enzyme Cleaner, Pee pads, Poo bags, Paper Towels
Toys
Grooming
Health, Vet, Vaccinations Vs Socialization, Insurance, Care Credit, Emergency funds
Puppy proofing inside and out, including kitties


This is really more your basic startup info. It's taken from other threads and posts that many active members of PF has contributed to. I hope more Pfer's will add to this, comment or correct any mistakes.


Crates, Carriers, Exercise Pens, Beds/Bedding, Travel

Crates
Hard side plastic or wire is best for early days. If you choose wire, be sure there are no sharp bits, and be very sure that the door will stay fully latched with a bumptious puppy in it. It's not common but there have been some concerning reviews mentioning injuries.
No collars in the crate for safety.
Look for one with a divider in the size you expect them to grow into and use the divider to keep them comfortably cozy (stand up, turn around, sleep) til then.
Use a blanket as a crate cover.
Use a washable bath rug/towels or sherpa crate mat for bedding.
Put something leak proof on the floor of the crate or under it.
Depending on the layout of the house/apt, consider 2 crates, one for the sleeping space, one for the living space.


If you can manage it, have the pup sleep in your bedroom. They just think they're on an adventure until bedtime, especially the first night, rolls around. Suddenly they realize that NOTHING is familiar, no scent, warmth or comfort of mom or siblings. They are Alone.


Ask the breeder to do this or bring a towel or blanket to get mom and siblings scent on it, to comfort them.
Keeping them in the same room allows you to hear if they are unwell or need to go out.
Expect to have the young ones out several times during the night for a while.
Set a periodic alarm to beat them to it.


Don't count on a lot of sleep the first days or weeks. Taking a few days off from work or work from home, if you can, will really help set routines and gives some time to get to know each other. Find out if the breeder had them on a daily routine and try to follow that for a few days.


They're facing so many instant and incomprehensible changes. Keep what you can the same for a while.


Ex Pen
This expands their relaxation space but keeps them contained and out of mischief.
Food and water bowls as well as pee pads can be in that space.
Use a leak proof flooring here also.
These can be plastic or wire or even pop up soft side. (Same caution on wire construction.)


Beds and bedding
This may depend on the pups age and what they're used to. A young pup probably doesn't need one just yet. An older pup or dog may already be using one.


Carrier
These are generally only good up to about 15lbs but have their place.
A smaller crate with handles can double as a carrier.


Travel
Keeping your pup comfortable and safe in the car is important.
Depending on size and age, you might use a carrier, a crate, or a harness with seat belts.


Sleepypod brand is a highest safety rated product. Testing was done by the independent Center for Pet Safety, with some testing sponsored by Subaru.
There are a number of threads covering other brand suggestions. You can use the Search function to find them.


Harnesses, Collars and Leashes
Harnesses are usually a better safety choice for smaller pups due to potential trachea injury from collars, but it may not be the best choice for a pup who wants to pull.
Collars will carry tags and ID but don't have to be worn inside the home due to potential choking hazards.


Food, Water, Bowls
It's best to keep them on the same food as the breeder had for a while. They're already under stress from the abrupt change in their lives and this is one thing that doesn't usually need to change immediately.
They may go off their feed as it is, so keep an eye on that.
Toys are especially subject to hypoglycemia. This can very quickly become fatal. Look for the sticky on it.
If/when you want to change foods, look for foods which follow the AAFCO guidelines and companies which have a veterinary nutritionist formulating the foods.
Stainless steel or ceramic is best for their food and water bowls.
You might consider filling a bottle with the water they've been drinking at the breeders and mix it with the water at their new home, to acclimate.


Enzyme Cleaner, Pee pads, Poo bags, Paper Towels, Bitter Apple Spray
Pretty much all self explanatory.
Natures Miracle is usually recommended for enzyme cleaner.
Bitter Apple Spray is to keep them from mouthing and biting on what you don't want them to.


Toys
Have a selection of several different types on hand.
Check with your vet for safe chewing toys. They also work as trade to get your fingers back
Puzzle toys are good, and Kongs to hide kibble and treats are helpful.
Not exactly a toy, but something to consider is the Smart Pet Love Snuggle Puppy toy. This can help soothe a pup.


Grooming
I hope others will have brand specific suggestions for combs, brushes, shampoos…
Generally, a puppy shampoo with or w/o conditioner added
Greyhound comb
Pin brush with rounded tips
Soft slicker brush
Dryer
Grooming table or designated area
Nail trimmer or Dremel tool
It is important to get them used to the grooming process asap.
The longer you wait, the harder it is on the pup and whoever's doing the grooming.
It does not hurt their coat to get a puppy trimmed

Health, Vet, Vaccinations Vs Socialization, Insurance, Care Credit, Emergency funds
Ask if any other dog on the premises has been ill in the last week or so. Choose a vet if you don't have one and know where the ER clinic is.
Have the pup checked out by a vet within a day or two of homecoming whether the breeder requires it or not.
Puppies can socialize with vaccinated adult dogs, and probably known puppies who aren't fully vaccinated yet.
Best to stay away from paws on the ground at places a lot of dogs might be til yours is fully vaccinated.
People are not usually any risk or at risk.
Consider pet insurance, at least for the first year or two, or sign up for Care Credit if there is a health emergency.
If you can, a healthy four figure separate savings account dedicated to emergencies can be a life saver, literally.
Keep a first aid kit and learn some first aid procedures.


Puppy proofing inside and out, including kitties, bunnies, older pets
Check your fencing if there is any. You want to keep things out as well as puppy in.
Check your plant life for possible toxic plants.
Inside keep cords and cables covered or out of reach.
Be sure that kitties or other free roaming animals in the home have a safe retreat from Puppy.
Anything puppy level is at risk.




Besides pet stores, there is Amazon, Chewy.com, and eBay and Etsy for supplies. Other brick and mortar stores if they're nearby are Tuesday Morning, Marshall's, HomeGoods, Sierra Trading Post and TJ Maxx. The last two are also online.
(Apologies for the US centric shopping references, but they're what I know.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Yeah, that should do.

Since we're on ear care, I don't know if you have any cotton balls lying around. You'll need those for cleaning out the ears. You can use rags, but just get a bag of 100-300 cotton balls for cheap is easiest imo. You'll use ~3 per ear per cleaning session. Also, if you're bathing at home, puppy will probably fit in the kitchen sink from 8-11 weeks old. Stuff his/her ears with 1 cotton ball per ear per bath to prevent water from getting in.



You're not. Your list is super comprehensive. I'm mentally walking over my first 1-6 weeks that I had with Basil. Your list is 110% good. Puppy's first 2 weeks with you is just going to be a lot of pee, poop, sleep, play, bonding. You'll find you don't need everything on day one, but it's nice to have. I was like you.

How is the puppy-proofing progress on room/apt/house going?
Good tips on the cotton balls. I used the flat ones for nail polish removal but will get the fluffy ones too. I just replaced my shower head with one with a 6 foot hose so I can bathe the puppy in the bathtub and be able to take down the showerhead for easy rinsing. That will decrease the chances that water will get in his ears. Should I worry about cotton balls when we play in water such as a kiddy pool or the ocean when he is a bit older?

As far as puppy proofing...

My bedroom will be the least puppy proof place but it will be off limits to the dog for at least a few months. My closet has a curtain in front of it (I would have to cut through tile to put a door in so not an easy fix) and lots of stored stuff at the bottom. But it will also be the cat room with cat litter and food and scratchers and a kitty (baby) gate. I'll have time to try and figure my closet out (I have a ton of archery equipment in there that needs to be in an airconditioned room so the garage is out and as we are in Florida, no attic or basement, so that's a tough one).

I'll be moving to my office to sleep with the pup there. The closet here has a door and all the shelves here are cubes with puppy stuff. (Can puppies open the giant cube drawers? Please tell me those are safe.) The crate will go here. The only worry is the cables from my computer system/work station/really expensive gaming rig. All the computer components are on a desk but the surge protector/USB is giant and I have floor space only. I am still looking for solutions to the cables.

The living room issue again is the TV and the boxes, players, gaming systems, and all their cables. Part of me thinks I need a baby gate in front of my entire setup. Otherwise, there really isn't anything not put away there in a cube (love those things). And I will have a playpen for the living room so (hopefully) no free unsupervised roaming there.

The kitchen and dining area... I am thinking about whether I should put child proof locks on those (and the bathroom cabinets). Everything else is put away or really, really high (so high I need a ladder to get to). I also bought a lidded trash can for the bathroom, the kitchen has a trash can in the cabinets.

The yard is fenced in and I have a screened in porch at the back of the house. Nothing there that I can think of that needs modification.

So really the cables and electronics are my biggest worry. I've had 3 cats in my life and not a single one was ever a chewer of cables (though I did lose a few yummy purses to one of them). Unless I am missing something critical...?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Your list is very good. I keep one on file which I'll drop it here for compare/contrast. I see some things on yours that I don't have.

New Pup/Dog startup

Crates, Carriers, Exercise Pens, Beds/Bedding, Travel
Harnesses, Collars, Leashes
Food, Water, Bowls
Enzyme Cleaner, Pee pads, Poo bags, Paper Towels
Toys
Grooming
Health, Vet, Vaccinations Vs Socialization, Insurance, Care Credit, Emergency funds
Puppy proofing inside and out, including kitties


This is really more your basic startup info. It's taken from other threads and posts that many active members of PF has contributed to. I hope more Pfer's will add to this, comment or correct any mistakes.


Crates, Carriers, Exercise Pens, Beds/Bedding, Travel

Crates
Hard side plastic or wire is best for early days. If you choose wire, be sure there are no sharp bits, and be very sure that the door will stay fully latched with a bumptious puppy in it. It's not common but there have been some concerning reviews mentioning injuries.
No collars in the crate for safety.
Look for one with a divider in the size you expect them to grow into and use the divider to keep them comfortably cozy (stand up, turn around, sleep) til then.
Use a blanket as a crate cover.
Use a washable bath rug/towels or sherpa crate mat for bedding.
Put something leak proof on the floor of the crate or under it.
Depending on the layout of the house/apt, consider 2 crates, one for the sleeping space, one for the living space.


If you can manage it, have the pup sleep in your bedroom. They just think they're on an adventure until bedtime, especially the first night, rolls around. Suddenly they realize that NOTHING is familiar, no scent, warmth or comfort of mom or siblings. They are Alone.


Ask the breeder to do this or bring a towel or blanket to get mom and siblings scent on it, to comfort them.
Keeping them in the same room allows you to hear if they are unwell or need to go out.
Expect to have the young ones out several times during the night for a while.
Set a periodic alarm to beat them to it.


Don't count on a lot of sleep the first days or weeks. Taking a few days off from work or work from home, if you can, will really help set routines and gives some time to get to know each other. Find out if the breeder had them on a daily routine and try to follow that for a few days.


They're facing so many instant and incomprehensible changes. Keep what you can the same for a while.


Ex Pen
This expands their relaxation space but keeps them contained and out of mischief.
Food and water bowls as well as pee pads can be in that space.
Use a leak proof flooring here also.
These can be plastic or wire or even pop up soft side. (Same caution on wire construction.)


Beds and bedding
This may depend on the pups age and what they're used to. A young pup probably doesn't need one just yet. An older pup or dog may already be using one.


Carrier
These are generally only good up to about 15lbs but have their place.
A smaller crate with handles can double as a carrier.


Travel
Keeping your pup comfortable and safe in the car is important.
Depending on size and age, you might use a carrier, a crate, or a harness with seat belts.


Sleepypod brand is a highest safety rated product. Testing was done by the independent Center for Pet Safety, with some testing sponsored by Subaru.
There are a number of threads covering other brand suggestions. You can use the Search function to find them.


Harnesses, Collars and Leashes
Harnesses are usually a better safety choice for smaller pups due to potential trachea injury from collars, but it may not be the best choice for a pup who wants to pull.
Collars will carry tags and ID but don't have to be worn inside the home due to potential choking hazards.


Food, Water, Bowls
It's best to keep them on the same food as the breeder had for a while. They're already under stress from the abrupt change in their lives and this is one thing that doesn't usually need to change immediately.
They may go off their feed as it is, so keep an eye on that.
Toys are especially subject to hypoglycemia. This can very quickly become fatal. Look for the sticky on it.
If/when you want to change foods, look for foods which follow the AAFCO guidelines and companies which have a veterinary nutritionist formulating the foods.
Stainless steel or ceramic is best for their food and water bowls.
You might consider filling a bottle with the water they've been drinking at the breeders and mix it with the water at their new home, to acclimate.


Enzyme Cleaner, Pee pads, Poo bags, Paper Towels, Bitter Apple Spray
Pretty much all self explanatory.
Natures Miracle is usually recommended for enzyme cleaner.
Bitter Apple Spray is to keep them from mouthing and biting on what you don't want them to.


Toys
Have a selection of several different types on hand.
Check with your vet for safe chewing toys. They also work as trade to get your fingers back
Puzzle toys are good, and Kongs to hide kibble and treats are helpful.
Not exactly a toy, but something to consider is the Smart Pet Love Snuggle Puppy toy. This can help soothe a pup.


Grooming
I hope others will have brand specific suggestions for combs, brushes, shampoos…
Generally, a puppy shampoo with or w/o conditioner added
Greyhound comb
Pin brush with rounded tips
Soft slicker brush
Dryer
Grooming table or designated area
Nail trimmer or Dremel tool
It is important to get them used to the grooming process asap.
The longer you wait, the harder it is on the pup and whoever's doing the grooming.
It does not hurt their coat to get a puppy trimmed

Health, Vet, Vaccinations Vs Socialization, Insurance, Care Credit, Emergency funds
Ask if any other dog on the premises has been ill in the last week or so. Choose a vet if you don't have one and know where the ER clinic is.
Have the pup checked out by a vet within a day or two of homecoming whether the breeder requires it or not.
Puppies can socialize with vaccinated adult dogs, and probably known puppies who aren't fully vaccinated yet.
Best to stay away from paws on the ground at places a lot of dogs might be til yours is fully vaccinated.
People are not usually any risk or at risk.
Consider pet insurance, at least for the first year or two, or sign up for Care Credit if there is a health emergency.
If you can, a healthy four figure separate savings account dedicated to emergencies can be a life saver, literally.
Keep a first aid kit and learn some first aid procedures.


Puppy proofing inside and out, including kitties, bunnies, older pets
Check your fencing if there is any. You want to keep things out as well as puppy in.
Check your plant life for possible toxic plants.
Inside keep cords and cables covered or out of reach.
Be sure that kitties or other free roaming animals in the home have a safe retreat from Puppy.
Anything puppy level is at risk.




Besides pet stores, there is Amazon, Chewy.com, and eBay and Etsy for supplies. Other brick and mortar stores if they're nearby are Tuesday Morning, Marshall's, HomeGoods, Sierra Trading Post and TJ Maxx. The last two are also online.
(Apologies for the US centric shopping references, but they're what I know.
Thank you for all that, I've considered most of things there but there are a few new ones. Really appreciate it!
 

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You are doing really well with this list. The covered trash cans are a great addition. None of my dogs have ever opened cabinets or drawers, so I think you can take a wait & see approach to kiddie locks for the cabinet doors. I have had dogs chew cables and electronics; you are wise to add those to your puppy proofing plans.

One thing I would add is sealable containers to store dog food and treats. Keeping the edibles in a sturdy container will discourage both pests and and puppy counter surfing. I have two large bins for kibble. I put treats in ziploc bags on a high shelf, but some of my friends use cookie jars.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
You are doing really well with this list. The covered trash cans are a great addition. None of my dogs have ever opened cabinets or drawers, so I think you can take a wait & see approach to kiddie locks for the cabinet doors. I have had dogs chew cables and electronics; you are wise to add those to your puppy proofing plans.

One thing I would add is sealable containers to store dog food and treats. Keeping the edibles in a sturdy container will discourage both pests and and puppy counter surfing. I have two large bins for kibble. I put treats in ziploc bags on a high shelf, but some of my friends use cookie jars.
I keep the cat dry food in the garage, was going to do that with the dog food too. But the cookie jar idea is awesome for treats, I'll have to do that!

And thanks for that about the cabinet drawers, makes me feel better about the wait and see approach. I still may put one on the bathroom cabinet and under the kitchen sink where I store chemicals but won't worry about the others with mostly pots and pans. Thanks!
 

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Anything you can do to prevent even a single puppy taste of garbage will serve you well in the long run. It's much harder to erase that delicious memory than to prevent it.

Bathroom trash tends to be extra tantalizing (used tissues, sanitary products, etc). I keep one bathroom garbage can on the back of the toilet (an inelegant solution, I know) and the other in a cabinet under the sink. Peggy's never attempted to get at either, but every puppy is different.

She does occasionally nudge open the kitchen cabinet, to take a long sneaky sniff of the trash and recycling. But so far no nibbles. I suspect it'll happen eventually, though.
 
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