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Poodle Grooming Grooming Poodles is important to their health discuss poodle grooming.

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Old 12-06-2012, 07:41 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by tokipoke View Post
Most pet dogs do not have the correct hair, so they are fine using a beveled edge shear - most of them are taken short anyway, but even at a longer length, the hair still doens't act right. Convex edge shears give a great finish, but why bother trying to get an immaculate finish on floppy hair? That's what I meant by using convex shears taking longer... they are not meant to cut through a lot of hair, and on incorrect hair, no matter how long you spend on it, it still doesn't look right. It is nice practice to use convex shears on every dog, but I find not every dog requires it. I have a pair of cheaper convex edge shears that I will try on a dog with a better coat.

I was taught to hand scissor heads, even on drop coat teddy bear heads, but it just takes longer, and then you have the dogs that move their heads, so I find the snap on combs easier just to take the bulk off. Every groomer has their way of doing things - as long as the finished product looks good and the owner is happy!
You're right every groomer does things different. Even if I use combs I still end up hand scissoring. It does take a little longer but not by much. Unless like you said they fight ya lol. I find less dogs fight me for their heads If I hand scissor as opposed to clippering. I used a comb once and it just went way shorter IMO so I have been hand scissoring exclusively ever since lol.
I only use convex shear on my bichons and poodle hand scissors. Otherwise regular bevels work fine, and yes they do leave a great finish. However, they take a number of extra snips to accomplish and the less wear and tear on my hands the better!
Are you allowed to use product at your work? Unfortunately we're not but if we could... On floppy coats I fluff up and scissor my imaginary lines. Yeah they will fluff down but at least I tried lol and I know I'd someone else grooms the dog they can't say I have scragglies lol! Many pet owners notice the difference too.. Not all, but many.


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Old 12-06-2012, 07:57 PM   #22 (permalink)
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thanks for the link! I think I'm understanding now! So you wouldn't even recommend a convex edge for finishing the dog, unless it's basically a show dog or something?
From what I'm reading it seems like using the beveled edge would work best for pre-bath, and the convex for finishing, but you wouldn't use if for your average Fido? Just stick to the beveled for now?
Sorry for all the questions, it's like a whole new world!
Also, do you guys have a pre-bath pair of scissors, and ones strictly for finishing? (Not even thinking of the edge, but just 2 pairs in general)
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Old 12-06-2012, 08:20 PM   #23 (permalink)
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thanks for the link! I think I'm understanding now! So you wouldn't even recommend a convex edge for finishing the dog, unless it's basically a show dog or something?
From what I'm reading it seems like using the beveled edge would work best for pre-bath, and the convex for finishing, but you wouldn't use if for your average Fido? Just stick to the beveled for now?
Sorry for all the questions, it's like a whole new world!
Also, do you guys have a pre-bath pair of scissors, and ones strictly for finishing? (Not even thinking of the edge, but just 2 pairs in general)
Work smarter not harder. I dont like to clip dirty dogs with anything unless they are so heavily matted then you have no choice. Its easier on your equipment to cut clean hair. If I did it again I would have convex shears and my $25 beveled shears for feet and small stuff. Time is money and you do get a nicer finish faster with convex than beveled. It really is going to depend on what kind of grooming you will plan to do. Some like to preclip and others do not.. If you are going to preclip/scissor then go with the beveled.

I wan to produce the best as possible, I want to make every fido look like a show dog (at least try). That is my style. I have the best stuff for my personal dogs and show/competition dogs.. I also will use them on certain breeds/ dogs that get handscissored. I will eventually upgrade all my pet shears. What do you want to do is the question? I also am venturing into the blender world an love it esp for TBH!
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Old 12-06-2012, 09:34 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Thanks all! I guess I just lack confidence. I live in a small town and there are actually loads of groomers, so I want to somehow stand apart from the rest.
I know it's good to research online, I just feel like it's not the same as actually DOING it. Anyway, if I just job shadow that lady I'm sure she'd let me watch for free. I met her before and she was really nice. She's slowing down and said she's glad to see younger people interested in it.

What would your best recommendation for the equipment be?
I know for SURE I need new scissors. I have the $99 set from pet edge, but could use a much better set. Other than that, I've got the HV dryer, Andis II speed clippers and quite a few blades. I recently bought a Bravura.
I can't think of what else right now, but I have all the basic needs. What would you recommend I upgrade, or look into getting as well. I know shampoo is a good idea-what kinds do you recommend? would you bother with specific colour types first, or just get a basic one, a medicated, and flea one? Other ideas? Sorry, my brain is asleep.
And how many blades of each would you recommend?
Have you thought about mobile grooming or door to door where you groom in the clients home. You would charge more than a salon would for sure and some clients really like that kind of service. If in the house grooming like someone said a express service (more like one on one grooming) would be unique since some customers are picky about how long their babies are away.. again this would fetch a premium price.

As for shears get the best you can afford. I have a pair of $25 wolffs that I use on feet for A, not to slice a pad and B not to ding my shear on a toenail. I am liking the Shark fins myself, but I also like CC shears. How many blades at least two of 4f and under and at least one if not two of larger blades OR get some guardcombs for longer hair. Shampoos seem to work better in certain climates and water ph. I have used the non soap cleanser Tropiclean it does pretty well. I love my IOD shampoos, and I have heard Nature's specialties is good in harder water. I have heard great things about B3 products and will one day get around to trying some lol. I already do sugar scrubs on my dogs.. Damn I think Ill get a sample:
B3 Salon Products

If you want to do top quality service you should use top quality products! Of course if you work for someone else you have to follow their rules. Of course as I said before what do YOU want to do? Also offering spa services would be different or hair color. What kind of clientelle are you looking for and what kind do you have to work with. Are we talking high end clients or those bargain hunters. Many variables to consider.

ETA: I would get a bathing system. I prefer recirculating systems myself.. I hate the hydrosurge kind!
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Old 12-07-2012, 07:27 PM   #25 (permalink)
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I was taught to do a rough shave first, to get most of the hair out of the way, then bathe,dry, and finish.
Obviously this isn't the case if I'm going to leave it long, but that's normally what I do. I only scissor a bit before the bath to get through the mats.
Also, you say you use clip on combs for the first shave, my boss gave me a bunch of blades, including 4's and 5's, but they aren't snap on combs, they're the actual blade... does this ruin it more? Or why is there really a difference?
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Old 12-08-2012, 07:35 AM   #26 (permalink)
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Guard combs tend to leave a nicer finish on some coats than blades and vice versa. They are cheaper than blades and all you need are the blades to go underneath like 9thru 50 depending on the comb brand. I have guard combs 1"-2" in length and bought 1/2", 5/8", and 3/4" blades. Much more expensive than a set of combs. I don't preclip generally I find it to be double the work.


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Old 12-08-2012, 10:48 AM   #27 (permalink)
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I was just taught this way, it also seems like they would take forever to dry if I didn't
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Old 12-08-2012, 08:32 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Understandably, many are taught that way, I think. IME unless the dog is severely matted, hates the dryer so bad it's willing to cause itself bodily harm, it's getting a 10 ao or the dog is just plain sketchy then I don't find pre clipping faster. I may preclip some shaves but if the blade doesn't go thru easily it gets bathed and blown out. If its a double coat and ESP if it gets longer than a 7 then it gets bathed first. Why struggle getting a blade thru dirty undercoat and deal with track marks when a clean blown out coat clips better. It's still going to take me just as Long to blow out. You should time yourself to see what works for you.. I found that bathing first is faster in most cases, at least for me. If you have an inadequate dryer that can definitely add time to your grooms and pre clipping totally makes sense


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Old 12-19-2012, 10:28 AM   #29 (permalink)
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Also, how often do you sharpen your shears?
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