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09-13-2009, 09:29 PM
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#1 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Names of dogs: Misa Mi
Poodle Type: Standard
Location: Lenoir, NC
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Teaching Bite Inhibition
My little Misa has become very mouthy. I know some of the reason is that she is teething so I made sure she had access to plenty of chew toys to help with that. The problem is when she plays (and I know that Puppies bite when they play) she bites me so hard, even when she is pretty calm and not in play mode, when I pet her she still tries to nibble my hands and feet.
I've tried telling her "No"
I've tried putting a toy in her mouth
I've tried doing the "puppy yelp" (that only gets her more excited)
I've tried tucking my hands to my chest and stop playing with her
I've tried putting her in "time out" and after a few minutes getting her back out to play.
I just don't know what else to do. Does any one have any suggestions that have worked for them. I understand she probably will grow out of it, I just don't want to lose my digits before she stops. LMAO
Thank you for any suggestions
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09-13-2009, 11:11 PM
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#2 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Names of dogs: Vienna, Vegas, and Cairo
Poodle Type: Standards and toy
Location: Northern Utah
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I've heard people putting rope toys in water, putting those in the freezer, and letting her chew on the frozen toy.
I was told a long time ago (man, I don't even know when) that when you get bit by your dog and don't desire them to do it, make the moment unpleasant. Either try buying Bitter Yuck or Bitter Apple Spray and spray it on your hands, when she mouths you, you'll taste AWFUL! Make sure to put your fingers on her tongue when she does it. But also make sure to wash your hands good after so you don't leave it on your hands, eat something, and taste it yourself, lol.
Another way I've heard is pressing whatever finger she's biting down on the area beneath her tongue where it's sensitive. If I bit down on something that hurt my mouth, like broken glass, I'd stop pretty fast.
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09-14-2009, 02:44 AM
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#3 (permalink)
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With consistancy all the things your doing will work.
I like that you said bite inhabition as I like to let a dog/puppy nibble on me till it hurts so that I can do the yelp and walk away. I would rather have them learn how hard they can bite and feel skin in their mouth rather so when going for a ball or something later they learn OH OH skin but stop now type thing. As well eventually we will have to have our hand in their mouths for some reason or another and they will realize not to bite us then as well. My English Mastiff would sit beside the couch and actually hold my husbands hand in his mouth every evening LOL it was so cute and they would play tug with his fingures around Dukes teeth.
It is a stage that doesn't last long thankfully. So with consitancy and time you will stop having little needle marks on you ONE DAY
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09-14-2009, 06:00 AM
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#4 (permalink)
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Names of dogs: Buff, Ellie, Billings, Vienna, Lot, Dangermouse, Elfy, Ria, Belka, Lada, NV, O'Tex, and Onyx
Poodle Type: Mini's
Location: Hudson, WI
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My opinion is that dogs understand things clearly if they are very black and white. Meaning, if the dogs teeth touch my skin that is a no followed by an immediate consequence. Usually I grab the muzzle of the dog and make it uncomfortable when I go to correct. I don't like to use external objects for correction because usually there is a time delay and the dog potentially might not know what its being corrected for. Also, with correction, I want the dog to worry about me and not some "thing" I may use for the correction. After the correction, I immediately give the dog something I want them to bite like a tug, or a ball on a rope or something. I come from the frame of mind that all dogs want and need to bite and fight with something. If you don't give them an outlet, they will find their own. I teach the puppy to tug and enjoy tugging and then I channel it into obedience. Our two Poodles are biting maniacs and I use that for manipulation. For them, its a stronger drive than food.
Also, I don't give a dog "plenty" of things to chew on. If a puppy has many things to play/chew on, it becomes less black and white and more gray as far as whats theirs and whats not theirs. Meaning, a dog with 10 toys can easily think that a shoe is one of them. Whereas a dog with 1 toy and 1 bone for example, knows that only this is their toy and its very easy to understand. Sometimes too many options will work against us. Although I like to free shape all my ob, I'm kind of a Hitler when it comes to manners and general behavior.
Not sure if that helps or not. Just my thought right now.
Take care and safe training
Mark
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09-14-2009, 06:30 AM
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#5 (permalink)
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Member
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I heard you can put them on their back imediently when they bite you and tell them no while doing so and it lets them know you are boss I have done this with my dog.
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09-14-2009, 10:30 AM
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#6 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Names of dogs: ROGAN (Silken's Red Rogue O'Dugan) 06/28/09
Poodle Type: Red Standard Poodle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kathy09
I heard you can put them on their back imediently when they bite you and tell them no while doing so and it lets them know you are boss I have done this with my dog.
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Not sure the Alpha roll is the best choice in this case... I don't believe the dog is trying to be dominant, just playing the only way he knows how, and the way he played with his litter mates.
Our 11 week old Standard is doing the same thing. One idea that I got from the forum seems to be working; when he goes to mouth your hand, make a fist and confidently put it in your dogs mouth as far down his throat as you can. Sounds odd, but works. The dog cannot bite you with his mouth that wide open and it's uncomfortable for him. Accompany this with the command NO or NO BITING. Rogan gets it after the first time. I tried closing his mouth and saying no biting, but every time I let go, he tried to nip again! lol silly monkey! the fist trick is working well with our little guy, good luck with yours! Remember, be consistent! Correct him every time he gets carried away!! good luck!
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09-15-2009, 04:28 AM
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#7 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Names of dogs: Misa Mi
Poodle Type: Standard
Location: Lenoir, NC
Posts: 135
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Keating
My opinion is that dogs understand things clearly if they are very black and white. Meaning, if the dogs teeth touch my skin that is a no followed by an immediate consequence. Usually I grab the muzzle of the dog and make it uncomfortable when I go to correct. I don't like to use external objects for correction because usually there is a time delay and the dog potentially might not know what its being corrected for. Also, with correction, I want the dog to worry about me and not some "thing" I may use for the correction. After the correction, I immediately give the dog something I want them to bite like a tug, or a ball on a rope or something. I come from the frame of mind that all dogs want and need to bite and fight with something. If you don't give them an outlet, they will find their own. I teach the puppy to tug and enjoy tugging and then I channel it into obedience. Our two Poodles are biting maniacs and I use that for manipulation. For them, its a stronger drive than food.
Also, I don't give a dog "plenty" of things to chew on. If a puppy has many things to play/chew on, it becomes less black and white and more gray as far as whats theirs and whats not theirs. Meaning, a dog with 10 toys can easily think that a shoe is one of them. Whereas a dog with 1 toy and 1 bone for example, knows that only this is their toy and its very easy to understand. Sometimes too many options will work against us. Although I like to free shape all my ob, I'm kind of a Hitler when it comes to manners and general behavior.
Not sure if that helps or not. Just my thought right now.
Take care and safe training
Mark
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I had to take Misa to the vet yesterday and while I was there I asked her what I could do about Misa's biting. And that is what she told me to do. It seems to be working...some...another thing was to use that Bitter Apple spray (thank you Fluffyspoos). I think I'm going to try that too. Like Heather said though, when I do hold her muzzle, she thinks I'm playing and tries for it again. Poor Misa...I hope she gets it soon.
Thank you guys for all of your suggestions.
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09-15-2009, 09:02 AM
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#8 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Names of dogs: Grace (Gray St. Poodle), Chantel (Apricot St. Poodle), Alfie (Silver St. Poodle)
Poodle Type: Standard
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The one thing that I have found to work really well is when the pup puts its mouth/teeth on my hand to play, I pinch their lip firmly so it hurts them and I say "ouch" in a hurt tone. The pup will either yipe or not, but will certainly let go of your hand quickly. I have found that it doesn't take too many times of pinching their lip for them to figure out that it is not a fun way to play with mom. I do not grab the muzzle and hold it shut as this does tend to confuse the dog and makes them want to grab your hand when you let go. Just give the pup a good pinch on the tender skin and do not pull your hand from their mouth or remove it at all, let them pull back from you. Then go back to petting as if nothing happened. I can tell you, it works real well.
Good luck.
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